Sewing-machine



F. ZALESKI.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPucATmu HLED JAN. s, 1918. RENEWED SEPT. 13, 1919.

1,338,477, Patented Apr. 27, 1920.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l- ,nvenTm". FrunK Zaleshi y/und Wk Anya F. ZALESKI.

SEWING MACHINE.

RPPUCATIQN HLEOJAN. 5, 191a. RENEWED SEPT. I3. 1919.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK ZALESKI, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS. ASSIGNOB TO THE BEECH BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 27, 1920.

Application filed January 5, 1918, Serial No. 210.440. Renewed-September 13, 1919. Serial No. 323.647.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK ZALESKI, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Boston. county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Macl1ines. of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing, like parts.

This invention relates to sewing machines of that type which are adapted to produce a plurality of separate short seams. such. for instance. as spaced-apart huttonholes. and it has particular reference to a threadtrimming device adapted to cut the under thread beneath and close to the work at the end oi the sewing operation. and which is adapted to cut close to the work the staycord. if one is used. in producing the seam.

In order to give an understanding of my invention I have illustrated in the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now he described. a fter which the novel features will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings. Figure l is a view showing a huttonhole sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto:

Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the work-holding means showing my improved trimming device:

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3. Fig. 2:

Fig. l is an end view of the clamp plate with the thread-trimming device thereon:

Figs. 5 and 6 are sections on the line 55. Fig. showing the trimming mechanism in different positions;

Figs. 7. S. 9 and U) are fragmentary views showing the different relative positions which the elements of the trimming device assume during the operation of trimming the under thread and stay-cord.

Although my improved trimming device might be used on various sewing machines that employ under thread mechanism in producing the seam. I have chosen herein to illustrate it as it might be used in a sewing machine of the type shown in Patent No. 115K942. dated June 27. 19l6.' The machine shown in said patent is a huttonhole sewing machine constructed to form the overseam or edge stitches around the edges of a huttonhole. and it comprises Wor -h0lding means, upper-threa l-handling mechanism and cooperating under-thread-handling mechanism adapted to concatenate an upper thread and an under thread to form the buttonhole stitches, means to actuate said upper-tbread-handling mechanism and under-threa(.l-handling mechanism to form the stitches around the buttonhole and then to bring said mechanisms to rest when the buttonhole is completed, and means to produce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means and the stitcht'orming mechanism while the buttonhole stitches are being formed, said means being operative to produce a further relative movement between the work-holding means and stitclnforming mechanism after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought. to rest thereby to bring the work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position.

The operative parts of the machine are mounted on a suitable frame 1. The upperthreadhandling mechanism is in the form of the usual eye-pointed needle 2 carried by the vertically-reciprocating needle bar 3. The under-thread-handling mechanism is mounted on a turret 5 which is rotatably carried in the frame 1 beneath the bed plate 4 and which is provided at its upper end with a throat-plate 6 having the opening 7 therein through which theunder thread 8 is delivered and through which the needle 2 as well as the needle of the under-threadhandling mechanism operate during the concatenation of the upper-thread with the under-thread. The stitch-forming mechanism is actuated from a driving shaft 80 which is controlled by suitable driving means (not shown) and which has associated therewith a stop mechanism to bring the shaft to rest when each buttonhole is completed.

The work-holding means in the machine herein shown comprises a clamp plate 9 that is slidahls mounted on the bed plate 4 of the frame and work-clamps 10 pivoted to the clamp plate and adapted to clamp the work against the clamp plate. The workholding means comprising the clam plate 9 and work clamps 10 are moved relative to to the stitch-forming mechanism to produce the feeding movement necessary while the buttonhole is being stitched by means of a feed cam. 11 situated beneath the bed plate 4, all as usual in sewing machines of this t pi and as illustrated in'the above-mentloned patent.

A sewing machine of this type is usually constructed so that when it is brought to rest the work-holding means will be situated so that the Work an clamped therein will be in position to have the buttonhole cut b means of the usual buttonhole cutter 12. hen .the machine is started in operation, the cutter 12 is' first actuated to cut the buttonholeand; then the work-holding means is given a movement by the feed cam 11 tocarry the work from buttonhole-cutting to stitching position, at which time the driving shaft 80 for the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation and the stitclr ing on the buttonhole proceeds. During the stitching operation th"work-holding means is given a feeding movement so as to form the stitches down one side of the buttonhole and then back'along the other side thereof, and when the buttonhole is completed the shaft 80 is brought to rest. The cam 11 then gives the work-holding means a further movement to bring the work fronr stitching to buttonhole-cutting position, at which time the machine is brought to rest. In many machines of this type it is custernary to provide an under-thread-handling mechanism that is adapted to deliver a stay-cord to the bnttonhole as the stitching is formed, said stay-cord being laid along the edge of the buttonhole so that the button. hole stitches will be formed thereover, and the machine herein shown is of that type, the stay-cord being shown at 13 in Figs. 5

and 6.

The parts thus far described are or may be all as usually found in buttonhole sewing machines of the type above referred to and as they form no part of my present invention it is not necessary to further describe them.

My improvements relate to a novel trimming device carried by the work-holding means and adapted to cut the under thread 8 and stay-cord 13 close to and beneath the work at the end of each sewing operation. The improved trimming device comprises a trimming knife stationarily carried by the clamp plate 9 in front of the normal sewing position, and a cooperating element in the nature ofa cutting block movably carried by the clamp plate, and means operative at the end of the sewing operation to move said movable element in the general direction of the line of feed so as to carry it back to the sewing position and around the under thread and staycord and then to move said element toward and against the stationary knife thereby to cut the under thread and staycord close to the work. The means for giving the movable element its movement is rendered operative by the further movement of the clamp plate in carrying the workfrom stitching to buttonhole-cutting position at the end of the stitching operation. The stationary cutting element is indicated at lat and it is herein shown as provided with a circular cutting edge 15. Said cutting element 14 is retained in position by a holding plate 16 which is secured to the clamp plate 9 in any suitable way as by nieans of screws 17. The stationary cutting member 14 is preferably adjustably carried by the plate 16 so that different portions of the cutting edge may be brought into position. For this purpose I have made said member 14 cup-shaped, it being adapted to fit over a 'hub or boss 18 formed on. the underside of the plate 16, as best seen in, Fig. 3. The plate 16 clamps the cutting element 14 firmly against the top of the clamp plate 9, but the cutting member 14 may be turned on the boss 18 to bring different portions of the edge 15 into operative position.

The movable cutting block member is indicated at 19 and it is illustrated as having a general hook shape and is provided with a shoulder 29 which is shaped to fit the cutting edge 15. The movable member 19 is normally in the position shownin Fig. 2,

that is. it is situated in front of the throatplate 6 or. in other words, in front of the sewing point and withthe shoulder 29 embracing or fitting the edge 15. At the end of the stitching operation this member 19 is first moved laterally into the position shown in Fig. 8. and then is moved in the direction of the line of feed so as to carry it back-of the stitching point. as shown in Fig. 9, after which it is moved laterally again so that it will pass in behind the under thread 8 and stay-cord 13 that extend downwardly from the'work through the opening 7 of the. throat-plate, as shown in Fig. 10. When in this position the .m mber 19 is given a quick movement toward the cutting member 14 thereby to bring the shoulder '20 against the cutting edge 15. as seen in Figs. 2. and 6. .The parts are so constructed and arranged that the under thren d and stay-cord cutting edge 15 and cutting block 19 during said -quick operative movement of the latter, and thus the said under thread and staycord will be severed close to. and beneath the work.

The cutting block 19 is formed on the end will be caught between the of an arm 21which is pivotally mounted on v the end of a second arm or lever 22 that in turn is pivoted to the clamp plate 9 at 23. The arm 21 has a circular hub portion 24 which is received for turning movement in a recess formed in the end 25 of the arm 22 so that the arm 21 has a'pivotal connection withthe arm 22. The hub 24. is provided i plate 4.

with a projection 26 which extends through a slot 27 formed in the wall of the recess in which the hub 2i is received and the end of the projection 26 is pivotally connected at 29 to the outer end of a lever 28 which is also pivoted to the clamp plate 9 at 23. The lever 28 is acted upon by a suitable spring 30 which tends to hold it in the position shown in Fig. 2 against a stop or rest 31. The arm 21 extends through and operates in a recess 32 formed in the top side of the plate 16, said arm being retained in said recess by a. retaining plate 33 which overlies it. The normal relative position of the parts of the trimming mechanism is that shown in Fig. 2. If the lever 28 is turned clockwise about its pivot 23 from the posi tion shown in Figs. 2 and T. the movement of the pivot 29 toward the right during the initial turning movement of the lever 28 will act on the projection 26 and give turning movement to the hub 2i and arm 21 thereby to swing the arm laterally until it strikes the wall 35 of the slot 32, as shown in Fig.

.8. This movement carries the cutting block 19 laterally to one side of the stay-cord and under thread. The further swinging movement of the arm 28 into the position shown in Fig. 9 will carry the cutting block 19 away from the cutting member 14. and behind the stay-cord and under thread. If the lever '28 is then released the spring 30 will give it a quick return movement into the position shown in Figs. T and 2, and this return movement is transmitted to the leven 22 through the projection 26 of the hub 24. The result is that during the initial rearward movement of the lever 28 said lever will act on the projection 26 to turn the hub 12% slightly in the lever 22. thus swinging the cutting block 19 in behind the stay cord and under thread. as shown in Figs.

and 19 so that the lever 2 completes its return movement into the position shown in Figs. 2 and T. the hook portion of the member 19 will engage the under thread and stay-cord and sever them against the cutting edge 15.

nasmuch as the work it rests directly on the clamp plate, this trimming operation will cut the under thread and stay-cord close to the work so that no subsequent handtrimming operation is required to complete the buttonhole.

The means I have herein provided for operating the actuating lever 29 is controlled or rendered operative by the relative movement between the wm'k-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism after the stitchforming mechanism has been brought to rest and while the work is being carried from stitching to buttmholecutting position. 36

indicates a controlling member in the form of an arm or lover IHVOKIl at 3? to the bed This controlling member has an arm 38 extending laterally therefrom to which is connected one end of a pulling spring 39, the other end of said spring being fastened to a plate 40 secured to the bed plate The plate 40 has a stop projection -11 rising above the bed plate 4 and against which the arm 38 normally rests, as shown in full lines Fig. 2. When in this position the end 42 of the controlling member 36 is situated to be engaged by the end 34: of the actuating lever 28 as the clamp plate 9 moves relative to the bed plate. As the. stitching on the buttonhole is being finished the clamp plate 9 is moving in the direction of the arrow a Fig.v 2, and the parts are so constructed and arranged that when the stitching is completed and the stitch-forming mechanism is brought to rest, the clamp plate 9 will have the position relative to the throat-plate as shown in Fig. 2, and the end 31 of the lever will have just met or be about to meet the end 42 of the controlling member 36. As stated above, when the stitching has been completed on the buttonhole the clamp plate 9 has a further movement in the direction "if the arrow a to carry the work to buttonhoie-cutting position, and during this further movementthe end 84 of the lever is resting against and fulcruming on the end 42 of the controlling member with the result that the actuating lever 28 will be turned through the various positions shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9. The result of this is that the cutting block 19 is moved laterally to one side of the under thread and stay-cord and then carried behind said under thread and stay-cord beneath the work. \Vhen the parts are in this position the controlling member 36 is swung laterally-to disengage it from the end 34 of the actuating lever, thus allowing the spring 30 to return the actuating lever to the position shown in Fig. 2 during which operation the member 19 is swung first laterally into the position shown in Fig. 10 and then is moved toward the cutting edge 15 of the member 14 thereby severing the stay-cord and under thread.

This releasing movement of the controller 36 is derived from a projection 43 which is secured to the clamp plate 9 and is adapted to engage a cam surface 44 formed on the controller 36. The cam face 44 and projection 4?) are so arranged that the projection will engage the cam-su1"tace when the actuating: lever has been carried into the position shown in Fig. 9 and during the further movement of the clamp plate from the position shown in Fig. 9 to that shown in Fig. 10 the projection 43 forces the controllcr 36 laterally so as to release the acuating lever 22. lt will be observed that this movement of the clamp plate 9 from the position shown in Fig. 2 to that shown in Fig. 10 carries the cutting edge 15 of the member 14 toward and over the throat-plate 6 so that at the time that the actuating lever 28 is released, the under thread and staycord are in close proximity to the cutting edge 15. Consequently,.when the member 19 has its operative movement toward the edge 15, it will readily sever the stay-cord and under thread.

In machines of this type, the clamp plate 9 is constructed to be removed from the front end of the bed plate 4 and to permit said clamp plate to be readily re-inserted after it has been removed, I have provided means for holding the controlling member 36 in the dotted line position, Fig. 2, in which it will be clear from the projection as. The arm 38 is shown as having a cam member 45 slidably mounted thereon so that when the cam member is moved outwardly into the dotted .line position, Fig. 2, it will engage the stop 41, thus swinging the con trolling member into the dotted line position and said controlling member will be held in this position so long as the cam member is in its dotted line position.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanisin, means to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing op eration and a further relative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a thread-trimming device carried thereby beneath the work when the latter is held therein and compris-. ing two coiiperating members normally situated in front of the sewing position, and means rendered operative during such further relative movement to move one of the members first to the rear of the sewing position and then back to its initial position again thereby to sever the under thread.

2. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined ,sewing operation and then to come to rest,

and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing operation and a further relative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means. of a thread-trimming element carried thereby. beneath the work when the latter is held therein and normally situated in front of the sewing position beneath the work, and means rendered operative during said further relative movement to move the trimming element beneath the work to the rear of the sewing ing work-holding position and then forwardly to its initial position again whereby the thread leading from the under side of the work is severed.

3. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitch forming mechanism during the sewing operation and a further relative movement after the stitch'forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a thread-trimming device carried thereby and comprising two cooperating elements normally situated in front of the sewing position, and means rendered operative during said further relative movement to move one of the elements first to the rear of the sewing position, then laterally in behind,the thread leading from the under side of the work, and then back to its initial position again whereby the thread is trimmed close to the work.

4. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding nieans, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stitch-forming mechanism. to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing operation and after the stitch-forming mechanism has brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a thread-trimming device comprising two cooperating cutting elements, one of which is movably carried by said work-holding means beneath the work, a spring acting normally to maintain said latter element in front of the sewing position, and means rendered operative during said further relative movement to move said latter cuttingelement to the rear of the sewing position and then to release it thereby allowing the spring to return it to its initial position.

In a sewing machine of the type havmeans, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stich-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism durin the sewing operation and a further re ative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a thread-trimming device comprisin two cooperating cutting elements, one 0 which is movably carried by said work-holding means, a spring acting normally to maintain said movable cutting element in front of the a further relative movement sewing position, means rendered operative during said further relative movement to move the movable cutting element to the rear of the sewing position and then to release said element thereb allowin the spring to return it to its initial posltion, and means to cause said element to move laterally as it begins its springumpelled movement.

6. In a sewing machine of the type comprising work-holding means, a stitch-forming mechanism, a frame on which sald devices are carried, means to cause the stitchforming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the W01 k-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism during the sewing operation and a further relative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a lever pivoted thereto, a thread-trimming device comprising two cooperating cutting elements, both of which are situated beneath the work and one of which is carried by the lever, a controlling member mounted on the frame and situated to engage said lever during said further relative movement thereby causing the cutting element carried thereby to move from the front to the rear of the sewing position, means to disengage the controlling member from the lever when said cutting element has been placed in the rear of the sewing position, and a spring to return the cutting element to its initial position whereby the thread leading from the under side of the work will be severed.

7. In a sewing machine of the type comprising work-holding means, stitch-form-- ing mechanism, means to actuate the stitchforming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding 7 means and stitch-forming mechanism durin the stitching operation and a further refixtive movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holdin means, of acuttin element fixedly secure thereto in front 0 the sewing position, a second cutting element movably carried thereby and normally situated in front of the sewing position, both cutting elements being situated beneath the work and means rendered operative during said further relative movement to move the movable cutting element to the rear of the sewing position and then forwardly into its initial position again.

8. In a sewing machine of the ty e comprising work-holding means, stitc -forming mechanism, means to actuate the stitchsaid further relative movement to actuate,

said lever thereby to carry the movable cutting element from the front to the rear of the sewing position and then to release said lever, and a sprin to return the lever to normal position w ereby the threads leading from the under side of the work are cut by the cooperation of said cutting elements. A

9. In a sewing machine of the type comprising work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to actuate the stitchforming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism durin the stitching operation and a further re ative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a trimming element fixedly secured thereto in front of the sewing position, a lever pivoted to the work-holding means, a movable trimming element carried thereby, an actuating lever also pivoted to the work-holding means, means to move said lever during said further relative movement and then to release said lever, a spring to return the lever to normal position, a connection between said actuating lever and the movable trimming element whereby during the movement of the lever in one direction the trimming element is first moved laterally and then rearwardly to the rear of the sewing position and during the movement of the lever in the opposite direction the movable trimming element is moved first laterally and then forwardly to its initial position again.

10. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stitch-form ing mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing operation and a further relative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a trimming knife fixedly carried thereby and situated in front of the sewing position, a cutting block movabiy carried thereby, and means rendered operative during such further relative movement to move the cutting block first to the rear of the sewing position and then toward and against the trimming knife thereby to sever the thread leading from the work.

11. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to cause the stitch-forniing mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest, and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing op eration and a further relative movement after the stit h-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a thread-trimming knife fixedly carried thereby and situated in front of the sewin position beneath the work, a cutting bloc also situated beneath the work, and meansrendered operative during such further relative movement to move the cutting block first to the rear of the sewing position and then toward and against the trimming knife whereby the threads leading from the under side of the work. are severed beneath the work.

12. In a sewing machine of the type having work-holding means, stitelrforrning mechanism,means to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined sewing operation and then to come to rest,

and. means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism during the sewing oporation and a further relative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work-holding means, of a trimming knife fixedly carried thereby and situated in front of thesewing position, a hook-sha ed cutting block movably carried thereby, and means rendered operative during such further relative movement to move the cutting hlook first to the rear of the sewing position and then toward and against the trimming knife whereby to the work is severed.

13. In a sewing machine of the type hav ing work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to causethe stltch-forming mechanism to perform a predetermined v sewing operation and then to come to rest. and means to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitch-- forming mechanism during the sewing operation and a fnrthermelative movement after the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, the combination with said work holding means, of a trimming knife carried thereby and situated in front of the sewing position, said trimming knife having a circular cuttin edge apd being adjustable to bring different portions of its edge into operative position, a cutting block movably carried by the work-holding means, and means rendered operative during such further relative movement to move the cut ing block first to the rear of the sewing position and in behind the threads leading to the work and then toward the cutting ed e thereby to sever said threads.

n testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

FRANK ZALESKI.

the thread leading sorrectlon inf Lietters Patent No. l,338,477.

It is hereby certified that in Letters PetentNo. 1,338,477, granted April 27, 1920,

upon the application of Frank Zaleski, of Boston, Massachusetts, for en improvement in Sewing-Machines, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 4, line 62, cleim 2, strike out the words beneath the i work"; same page, line 100, claim 4, after the word has insert the word been,

and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Oflice.

Signed and sealed this 18th day of May. A. D., 1920.

[emu] M. H. COULSTON,

Acting Chmmissiomr of Patents. Cl. 112-33. 

